November 2011 Archives
When thumbing through the Thanksgiving
cookbook I wrote for Williams-Sonoma in 1997 (link), I rediscovered my recipe for Cranberry Sauce with Grapefruit and Honey. We have a prolific grapefruit tree in the yard of our new home, and so my decision about how to flavor the cranberries this year was easy.
One of my all time favorite sweet ingredients shows up in this sparkling condiment too- crystalized ginger. The resulting dish is tangy from the grapefruit and cranberries, sweet from the honey, and slightly spicy from the ginger- a terrific compliment to roast turkey.
My friend Sonja requested this recipe as soon as I served it to her a few nights ago, and then my cousin Rachel asked for it when I told her about it. All three of us will be putting it out as a nibble before our Thanksgiving feasts, with carrot and celery sticks and blue tortilla chips as dippers.
I created the recipe after an outstanding dinner at Farmshop
, in Brentwood. The meal began with a stunning pumpkin hummus topped with sautéed garbanzo
beans, and I enjoyed the dish so much, I wanted to create my own version.
I like butternut squash more than pumpkin, and had half a squash in the fridge, so I roasted it to intensify its sweet, earthy flavor. I boiled dried garbanzos- canned will work fine, but freshly cooked dried beans have a cleaner, less salty taste. Look for them at Indian and Middle Eastern markets, if they aren’t in your grocery store.
One of the biggest challenges on Thanksgiving day is producing a silky, deeply flavored gravy amidst the chaos of final preparations- pulling the turkey and dressing out of the oven, mashing potatoes, putting the finishing touches on vegetable dishes, and garnishing the turkey platter. To avoid this chaos, I decided to create a make-ahead gravy with all the good tastes of the traditionally prepared sauce, and I am thrilled with the results
Both a cousin and a sister-in-law stick to gluten-free diets, so I added gluten-free constraints to the challenge of formulating the perfect gravy, but, the recipe is also great with more customary wheat flour too.
The crucial step to this sauce is cooking up a rich turkey stock at least 1 day before the feast. I purchase extra turkey necks, brown them in a Dutch oven, cover with water, and let the brew bubble for a few hours. Meanwhile I am blanching green beans, simmering the cranberry sauce, and cutting up carrot and celery sticks to use as dippers for the butternut squash hummus I will put out as a starter on Thanksgiving (look for that recipe tomorrow).
When the cool wind started roaring around our new hilltop home last week, I got out a heavy saucepan, and stirred up a batch of herb-scented polenta to warm us up. The simmering potion took the chill off the house too.
I keep a package of Bob’s Red Mill medium grind cornmeal (available at many grocery stores) in the cupboard at all times; that along with other staples- a bit of onion, scallion or shallot, a handful of fresh herbs, and a little grated cheese, are all the ingredients needed to transform cornmeal into a creamy polenta.
There is one step in the preparation that requires attention- adding the grains of corn to the boiling liquid in such a way as to avoid clumps. The technique is simple: scoop up about ¼ cup of the cornmeal at a time, and sprinkle it from the measuring cup into the bubbling water, whisking all the time.