Cool weather and rain in the forecast make this a perfect week to cook a pot of warming seafood chowder. This recipe, with its creamy broth, delicate cod, smoky bacon, and fresh kale, has rich flavors and is simple to make. I developed it for the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch website, to entice people to try Pacific Cod, a sustainable fish that is terrific in chowder and tacos, and is not expensive. Atlantic cod is greatly overfished, so Pacific cod is a tasty alternative.

It's a great dish for entertaining, the recipe doubles easily, and the broth can be made ahead. Before serving, simply bring the soup to a boil, add the fish and kale, and simmer until cooked through. To round out the menu I served it with a salad and my favorite cornbread, made with olive oil and flavored with fresh rosemary (alternatives I suggest in the recipe).

This chowder recipe is easy to adjust too, according to what is available in the market and the whimsy of the moment. When I shopped for the party the grocery store had only a small amount of Pacific cod left, but heaps of plump sea scallops, so I replaced some of the cod with scallops, which added a sense of luxury. The rainbow chard at the farmers’ market was so glossy and fresh; I decided to use it in place of the kale. The resulting soup was just as good as the original.